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coffee@home: Kickapoo Colombia

Beans: Colombia Fondo Paez Cooperative
Roaster: Kickapoo Coffee

Rating:
4-

As I have in the past, I have Coffee Review to thank for a good coffee tip. I first discovered Kickapoo coffee when researching Counter Culture’s La Golondrina two years ago.  At that time, Ken David’s gave Kickapoo’s Colombia a whopping 95 points. More recently it came in at a lower, but still very respectable 92 points. This coffee had long since been on my list. When I saw it on ROASTe as part of my review of that site, I knew it was time to finally give it a try.

As I explained in the ROASTe review, the coffee arrives directly from the roaster. I don’t have an exact record, but I think the coffee showed up just four days off roast. As you can see, Kickapoo has opted for resurrecting the coffee can. I can’t speak to the environmental merits of this packaging other than to say that it is recyclable or reusable. If figured I could be stuck on re-use if I became a regular Kickapoo consumer – my daughter only needs so many cans for holding crayons on her art table – until I took a look on Google for creative options.  My favorite so far is the ironic twist on environmental devastation – using a coffee can to annihilate the earth.

The coffee itself was just what I hoped it would be. The light roast seemed to hit the sweet spot, revealing the qualities of the bean without any grassy or otherwise off flavors you can sometimes pick up in a lighter roast. My tasting notes included: mild chocolate, earth, apple, lime, brown sugar, a bit of black pepper bite and hint of bergamont.  The coffee is thick with a slightly bitter, citrus zest acidity and a clean finish.

As far as brewing methods, you can’t go too wrong, but I tended to prefer this coffee brewed via Chemex. French Press overpowered the more delicate aspects of the coffee with a heavy body and methods such as a the siphon and aeropress tended to lead to a more imbalanced, overly acidic cup. Needless to say the roast is too light to produce a decent shot of espresso, but this coffee did seem to have some interesting potential in that direction.

I’m anything but an expert when it comes to green coffee quality or roasting, but my instinct here is that Kickapoo has roasted this bean superbly. If the coffee falls short of any top marks, its simply due to the green coffee not being as good as past crops. If you’ve tried this coffee and know more about the interplay of these two factors (which is probably a lot of you out there), It be interested in hearing whether you concur.

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