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coffee@home: Stumptown Wondo


Beans: Ethiopian Wondo
Roaster: Stumptown (via Four Barrel Coffee)
Rating: 3+

In what very well may be the last of my Stumptown purchases from Four Barrel (1,2), I grabbed this bag of Ethiopian Wondo from the shelves during a fit of not knowing what else to grab. My primary goal at the time was to get some more tasty decaf before its all gone.

This coffee epitomizes a roasting trend that I’m hastily generalizing to all Stumptown coffees based on my mere handful of purchases (from Four Barrel) over the past few months. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m finding most of these coffees to be just a tad dark in the roast when it comes to brewed coffee, leaving only traces of what must surely be more complex flavors and aromas. Yet, the roasts are dark enough that these coffees tend to work to reasonably well as single origin espressos.

The Wondo is barely interesting brewed as a French Press, pour over drip or siphon. It is bold, fresh and chocolately with a very slight everything: a bit of red apple, a touch of brown sugar, a suggestion of spring leaves, a tea-like body and a crescendo of  barely lemon acidity and mild tobacco aftertaste. This description is really reaching for one though. The coffee is pleasant but not particularly complex and just barely compelling. I’d probably rate it closer to a 3 or 3- if it wasn’t so satisfying as an espresso.

It’s not a particularly sweet shot, but does closely resemble the bittersweet chocolate qualities of a good stout beer – only in shot, rather than full pint form. It’s the mini-me of Guinness if you will. It comes out dark and goes down easy and doesn’t take a lot of attention to enjoy. I didn’t get to try this one in milk drinks but it could prove interesting assuming it’s the chocolate that comes through and not the beer.

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